It's now Sunday the 21st and we're in Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, a fairly large city of more than 2 million. It's not every day that you can say you rode an elephant after breakfast - today's highlight, in addition to seeing the city's palace and museum and astronomical complex. We've travelled for a week now, first from Delhi to Kota by train, then to Bijaipur, Udaipur, Deogarh and now here in Jaipur; tomorrow we set off for Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. People can tell you what to expect when you arrive in India -- you can read about it, hear about it, see photos of it -- but there's nothing that can truly prepare you for the wonder of this society. Cows and monkeys really do wander freely in the city streets - as well as on the highways - which our driver Mohan has been navigating beautifully (not an easy job). On Friday night we were entertained by traditional dancers in Deogarh, along with the former king and queen, who have turned their palace into the hotel we stayed at. Earlier in the week we lunched at the Lake Palace in Udaipur, which you can see in the Bond film "Octopussy" - I can't imagine anything more grand. All of this of course amid throngs of people living in what we'd consider very basic and difficult conditions, but the children seem happy, and the women look beautiful, dressed in colorful saris, even those working in the fields or carrying pots of water along the highway on their heads. This will be a Christmas season Akhil and I won't forget. Thinking of you here in India! Happy holidays!